Monday, May 17, 2010

Day 4-Egypt-Religion at its finest.

Today started out much better weather wise than yesterday. Temps were only about 93 so we were actually kind of cold. Our first stop was CultNat, a project funded by the government and run by the Library of Alexandria. Its main purpose is basically to research and document everything in Egypt. Seriously. As ridiculous as that sounds it’s true. From photography to wildlife to literature to architecture. And then, they put it all into easily usable form and put it online or sell it. Talk about a lot of information. I couldn’t even believe it. There was just so much that I don’t know what you would do with it all. Thousands of pictures of Cairo from a hundred years ago. Databases of different types of architecture that can be searched by style, windows, doors, etc. It just went on and on. What an amazing thing. The question I wanted to know the answer to, though, was whether Egyptians even cared. This is a government project and it is aimed at promoting a certain image of the country. They are continuing to provide the narrative of Pharaonic Egypt to tourists, and information to academics. But do the locals who pay for this via taxes actually use it? I can only hope so because it’s an amazing collection of information that rivals any other.
Our next two stops were so quick that I’m not completely sure what they were. One was the Ben Ezra synagogue which had some beautiful architecture. The other, I’m not sure what it was because we got kicked out so fast by everyone who had us running to the last one. That was a bit of a disappointment because apparently a lot of people consider it the most holy Coptic church in Egypt due to it being where Joseph and Mary and Jesus stayed for three months in the basement crypt. So after 3 minutes there we got hustled out and moved on to the Hanging Church. As to its significance, not a clue, I couldn’t even tell you. Talk about a lack of information. It was built on a former guard tower is about all that I can tell you. The problem is that the rooms are small and our guide doesn’t really speak loudly or clearly and you unless you’re next to him (impossible in this type of situation) you don’t hear a word. Plus he didn’t say too much anyways. But I will say that I saw a lot, got some great pictures, and learned quite a deal through other sources.
What really caught my attention was the security outside. I understand that monuments like these need to be protected, but this was unbelievable. They were absolutely crazy. There were guardhouses and machine gun wielding soldiers all over the place. It made me wonder about the religious tensions here in Egypt. The ones that we are told are generally good. Maybe things are a little more complicated and messy. After this, our last stop was Amr el-As Mosque. According to our guide it is the oldest mosque not just in Egypt, but in all of Africa. It has been rebuilt multiple times of course, but it was absolutely beautiful. Only pictures can do it justice. If I had to describe it in one word though, peaceful would probably be it. It was so quiet and enjoyable that we stayed there until we had to leave and just enjoyed the place. We say out on the rugs and soaked the quiet in. The other thing of note is the encroachment of modernity. There were fans and light bulbs everywhere. Not exactly a good background for pictures. That, too, made me wonder about Egyptians interest in protecting their heritage.
So we headed home about six or so and had dinner on the roof. That was about it. The story of my day.

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