Late Night Tunisia

Music of the day- Nick Drake

Yesterday was a break like I needed. We spent the morning sleeping and then decided to head out on the town. We live, as I mentioned before, just down the road from Carthage. We thought that we would go down and look at some of the ruins, but after getting there we found out that everything was ridiculously expensive. To get into each of the different ruins was ten dinar, which equals about seven dollars. That may not seem like much, but that's our daily budget, either see this stuff, or not eat was sort of the choice. We wavered and stood around for awhile and finally one of the guys at the gate started talking to us true Tunisian style. Really nice guy who asked about what we were doing in Tunis and all. Eventually we found out from him that everything is free if you have a student id. Which I did, so did Lilly, but Kevin didn't. So we decided to go back another day. Instead we went off in search of a beach. Which ended up being a true failure.

 We talked to some guys down the road via Kevin's Spanish and ended up on a not so great beach. We turned around and walked back the way we came and up the coast towards Sidi (Bou Said, I'm gonna refer to it by Sidi from now on because a) I go to school there so it'll come up a lot, and b) because I'm too lazy to type the whole thing). So we walked up to Sidi, about a half an hour walk past one of the President's palaces and several other residential neighborhoods. We got there just as Katie and Rose called us so we got some water at the grocery store while we waited for them to catch up with us. We made it down to the beach eventually, after some serious hills, and had our first cultural experience of the day. As we sort of expected, it was all men. So of course the girls were super popular and got stared at the whole day. It was a little awkward but they actually didn't really notice, just Kevin and I. We spent the day warding off teenagers who kept trying to play ball closer and closer to us all. We spent a few hours there listening to music and talking and swimming. The water was surprisingly cold and salty, little bit of a shock to the system. We finally had to leave because Rose and Katie had a wedding and Lilly had some other ceremony to go to. Kevin and I were coming home to have some dinner before the game because we had invited everyone over to our cafe.

We weren't really sure how many were going to show so we hedged our bets and said 5 or 6 to Bessem and the cafe owners. We sat down just the two of us and got some coke's and tea and a hookah with prime real estate right in front of the TV. After about half an hour people started showing up. They had a little bit of trouble finding the place because it is sort of in the middle of nowhere, but not nearly as many as they could have. At first it was just Kevin and I and Nihel which was funny because she was the only girl in the place and all the guys kept looking at her like she had three heads.

They definitely weren't used to seeing women in the cafe but it was alright after awhile. Claire and Kate showed up to back her up so it got less awkward. And then Bessem and his friends got down there. A few others showed up later and we had to move somewhere else because there were about 12 of us. It was a great group though, and as you might know, had you watched the game, an excellent match. Well played by both teams and I can honestly say one of the best games I've ever seen. I was on the edge of my seat the whole time. But it ended with only a couple broken glasses and lots of yelling and rowdy Tunisian crowds. We headed out and got congratulated by half the place on our team's success.

It was about 10 and we wanted to go out so we stood around in the road for awhile debating what to do. Megan and Allison and David and Leah's families called to say they'd planned something so we all took off to get our stuff and meet up. Kev and I changed quick and then walked down with David and Nihel to his place to get Leah who'd gone home with her host brother. We picked them up, and then went to Megan and Allison's to get them. Along with their host sisters, cousins, and friends. We left and got lost three times on our way to the bar. In the end it took us two and a half hours from the end of the match to get to where we were going with all the stopping, starting, chatting, getting lost, etc.
It was an odd situation. None of the Tunisians we were with had ever been there and they were as surprised as us by how the night went. It ended up being a super expensive and exclusive Tunisian night club. With lots of techno (not my thing) lots of pricy drinks (not my thing) and an awesome night out with our friends. There were about 15 of us and when we got there they told us we had to either buy a bottle of something or buy food. Turns out that a bottle in a Tunisian night club runs about 250 dinar (175 dollars) a little above my price range.

 The food was ridiculously expensive too, but we caved and Allison and I split a hawaiian pizza. Mmmmm pineapple. Megan and Kev got calamari which was pretty good, and a lot of other people got pizzas. So we sat and talked, had a few beers, wandered around on the beach, and danced to ridiculous Tunisian music. It wasn't a normal day out for me by any means, or anyone else in the group, but it was really fun. We started to get a bit tired though and everyone finally decided it was time to leave about 3:30. We made it home and were crawling into bed just as the sun started to come up. The roosters made it a little hard to fall asleep, but we managed.

Why.........?

Music of the day --- K'naan

About three hours after the last post I had to write this one down because Kevin and I were delirious with exhaustion. Yet we couldn't sleep because the chanting was still going on. These were all of the questions we asked in about a thirty second period at one in the morning.

Where are my shorts?
Why's it so hot?
Why are there rabid dogs?
Why do we eat so much tuna?
Why do we have goats outside our window?
What is with all this chanting?
Why is it so hot?
Why do roosters keep waking us up every morning?
Why are they still chanting? Does God hear them better the thousandth time?
And where did my bed go?

Waking up at home.

Lots to talk about tonight. We’ve had a crazy couple of days. For one, I’m doing my part to empty the seas of tuna. You might not believe it, but tuna is the food of choice in Tunisia. With eggs a close second. Getting more than my fair share of both. Everything has at least one of them in it, and last night I bit into a quiche to find out it was a tuna quiche. I can’t seem to escape it. That’s okay though, can’t win them all.

Next on the list is that tonight ended up being another family get together. While the first one was related to the mother’s death, this one was more the religious side of things. Right now I’m in my room and it’s amazing, I’m listening to about fifteen Islamic scholars chant out of the Qu’ran. It’s quite the experience, sounds beautiful to me. It flows, smoothly, up and down, voices fade and then come back in, one at a time, two at a time, ten at a time. Just now the leader is alone on a solo, the others are starting to join back in, and now it has slowed to a whisper.

Something to note is the food. As the pictures will attest, there was more than enough for the twenty-fiveish of us that were here tonight. There was a bowl of pasta salad bigger than a table and it’s still being passed around. People come out of the other room for a break, grab some food, make a phone call or two, go back in, and join right back in with the ceremony. Besides that, some of the family members (mostly women and the sons) that aren’t in the ceremonial room are running food out into the town. As per Arab culture, sharing is a must. And so an enormous amount of food is being showered on the neighbors and friends in the area. Some was even left on the step for passersby. But it had to guarded of course because of the dog packs.

You see, dogs here are crazy. They’re everywhere. While in some countries it’s cats, here it’s dogs. Today, Kevin and I sat on the porch and watched a pack of them chase a man down the street. They’re insane, kind of worried after that actually. Hopefully they’re not rabid because I don’t have that shot, and even if I did, it’s not very effective. But as I was saying, I watched a particularly large one jump up on him and he had to punch it in the face so he could keep running. Time to get out the baseball bats in my opinion. Definitely not walking around alone late at night.

Next thing of note, the people here are amazing. I’ve been somewhat processing the country for awhile and seeing as it is the end of my first week here are some preliminary observations.

First of all, Tunisians are, with no doubt in my mind, the absolute best people I have run into anywhere. They’re beyond amazing. They are the friendliest, most generous, and happiest people that I’ve ever encountered. I’m debating getting a new passport. They are just so positive about everything. They have such a good attitude towards life. Never have I felt more at home so quickly, the exception being the second time I moved to France.

 

Note: This isn't my picture, I stole it from a friend.

Another observation is that they are also one of the most quirky people I have ever met. Tonight for example, I met a Rastafarian Tunisian. While there are some serious stereotypes about North Africans and Middle Easterners, I can tell you that they’re all wrong. Shocking as it may be, no one rides camels. And they don’t all pray five times a day. Nor do I see headscarves, maybe one or two a day, and never even a niqab much less a burqa. In reality, Tunisians seem to be the most varied group of people that I’ve ever met. So much diversity. You do get some slightly conservative people of course, but not even anything like you see in Morocco or Egypt. Along with Lebanon I’d say that Tunisia is the most progressive country in the region. Women have had the vote longer here than some places in Europe. Tunisia is also, as you might know, a bit of a crossroads and warzone. Carthage is about three minutes down the road. I pass it on the way to school, there’s a Hamilcar Barca rail stop nearby. Then came the Romans, then the Arabs, then the French. Italy is a three hour boatride. You can’t get more central than this. It means that the food is Italian, French, and Middle Eastern. The people are all bilingual because the schools are, and you wouldn’t believe the number of foreigners in the streets.

Barbados--Five months late

Note to readers, I just found this piece from when I was in Barbados over winter break, must have forgotten to post it so here it is along with some pictures.

Also, another new addition, old tradition that I'm bringing back, like I used to do I'm going to try to remember to put up whatever music I'm listening to while I write or see whatever it is that I'm writing about. Today-Stephen Kellogg

I had pickled bananas and salted fish dumplings for lunch. Welcome to Barbados. The farthest east of the West Indies is where I'm spending my winter break, and while at home everyone I know is enduring snow drifts, I'm enjoying waves and sun on palm lined beaches. I flew in on a Sunday and the airport experience was as easy as it gets, right through customs and on to pick up our bags which showed up about ten minutes after we landed. We found the bus, and then our guesthouse, in about half an hour and were settled in with time to spare for a beach trip before sunset. Our first night was a bit of a downer, though, I will admit. 

 We didn't pack much food and didn't know where to find any so we went to bed at nine to avoid our hunger. The next morning we woke up and had a small breakfast before hunting down Bottom Bay, one of the islands more secluded beaches. It was a bit hidden, as well as a mile or two past the last bus stop, but definitely worth the walk once we finally made it there. The beach is down several flights of stone steps and winds through some large boulders and cliffs before opening onto a crescent shaped bay surrounded by more cliffs and scattered with a few palm trees. As the pictures will attest, it is one of the prettiest views I've ever seen.

We spent the day there, swimming in the waves and reading in the shade, before heading home at about four in the afternoon. We finally found a bus (which takes awhile because the local schools had let out and the busses were busy dropping them off before continuing their normal routes) and made it home a little after dark. There's not much to talk about that night, we watched an episode of House and made some dinner before going to bed and waking up to do it all over. Except Tuesday, we went somewhere different.

Crane Beach is one of the island's most recommended (as well as one of the world's most recommended on some websites) and we found it to be well worth the effort of getting there. It was a 40 minute bus ride but easier to find than Bottom Bay, and was a thin strip of sand running along the coast beneath cliffs topped by The Crane hotel. It was much more crowded than Bottom Bay and had several different people there offering chairs and drinks to anyone who showed up. We declined (student travel budgets aren't that large) and spent the day relaxing on our custom built sand chairs. The swimming was calmer than the day before with waves only about three or four feet high and a large sand bar running along the beach making it safe for children.

We were really surprised by the number of families there with their children as well as elderly couples and even a few other college students. Great beach that you can all witness via my Facebook pictures and whatever I post on this site.

 

My life is a Tunisia rap song.....

Avenue Bourghuiba (Tunis)

So here's the deal, I’ve been in country for three days and it has been quite the experience. So far we’ve had tons of class, everyday, all day. Our group is great and we’re really getting to know each other. They’re all very nice and we’re bonding over struggling with Tunsie. We got to Washington and had our first orientations and then a couple more here in Tunisia. The first three days here we spent in a hotel (on the Avenue des Etats-Unis, how appropriate) and just moved in with our families today.

It was a bit of a surreal experience. From start to finish. I guess that we’re at the move-in process finish at this point and I need to recap for your own benefit. The morning started off great, we all had breakfast together, packed up, got our stuff ready, etc. etc. We hopped on the bus and drove up to Sidi Bou Said. It’s a suburb north of Tunis that is sort of upscale and full of tourists, with good reason. We saw it the other day and it’s beautiful, whitewashed houses everywhere with blue doors and windows. Looks exactly like Greece. We’re going to school there and are spread out in families there and in the next town over, La Marsa. That’s where I live, with one of my best friends on the trip, Kevin. We’d been hanging out a bunch the last few days and so it was a bit crazy we ended up living together. Everyone got to the school and unloaded their things and we sat around waiting, like on Survivor, to see who was getting voted off the island first. Except it wasn’t a negative feeling, just sort of an anxious one. You ever go to the doctor and sit, and sit, and sit, and people keep getting called before you? That’s how it was. We were just waiting to see who was next. And of course a bunch of the families were already there so as we walked in everyone was looking around at each other. Because they knew we were their students and we knew that somewhere one of our families was lurking. So of course everyone said hello to everyone else as if they were about to move in with them. Even though the chances were slim. I swear I said asalama and shnua hwayluk (hello and how are you) to everyone in the place.

Downtown Tunis

So we all sat down and waited like I said. And boy was it awkward. People started leaving and I couldn’t resist joking about it being like a dodge ball tournament where the last person picked is the rotten egg. People kept leaving in pairs and so we were kind of excited to see if we’d be living with one of our friends. As I mentioned, I’d been hanging out with Kevin a lot and we hadn’t expected to live together, but wouldn’t you know it. Sonia was telling us that they’d placed people together based on their interests and personalities and such. So I guess it wasn’t really that odd. But of course, after my jokes about being last, we were. Us and two other guys whose families weren’t there yet.

But our guy got there, our brother Bessem. He’s 24 and just about to take his final exams to get a degree in financial engineering. Quite the guy. We think he’s a bit of a frat boy. Kinda crazy, likes to drink a lot, hit on girls, get into trouble, etc. And he knows the entire town. His friends were everywhere we went. We spent a couple hours in a café and then went back to the house. And then went back to the café. And then went back to the house. And then went out to another café. See. Long story. Sort of awkward one too. But to put it straight, our host mom just died. Um. Two weeks ago. From cancer. Not exactly the usual situation you move into. We feel a little awkward to say the least. But what can you do? That’s just how it is. Anyways, point is, the house was getting a shakedown in preparation for the party tonight. So we spent a bunch of time out with Bessem and then came back to eat and hang out with the family. Really nice people. And what was crazy to me was how familiar it all seemed. They were all so close, joking around, etc. The people are so close here. They love each other and aren’t afraid to show it. They crack jokes, push each other around, hug, yell, etc. It’s just a great kind of interaction that you rarely see between different age groups too. But they’re amazingly close and so open and friendly with strangers.

 Near the souk.

The other part, was the whole time out on the town. Bessem, as I said, is Mr. Popular. And he knows everyone. So a bunch of his friends joined us for drinks at the café, and then we drove off downtown with two of them. The one, was a hilarious guy who apparently is the same, he spent the entire time yelling out the windows to his friends as we drove by. The other, is a Lebanese Idol star. Has multiple CDs and such out. He’s really popular here in the area too I guess. So we went to the cafes and then drove around for a bit. And like I titled this post, our lives are now like a Middle Eastern rap video. They sang with him (of course) and drummed on any part of the car they could. Ceiling. Dashboard. Each other. You name it. And in addition, they spent it yelling out the windows at people, teaching us every swear word they could think of, hitting on random women, and generally just being big rowdy bears. Which I compare them to because they were so harmless, a bit like Baloo or Yogi. The type of people who were happy with life and everything around them. It was a great afternoon and we spent it laughing at their antics in the backseat.

We made it back and ate some food and met the family. We sat out on the porch and talked, listened to some stories, worked on our Arabic some more, and then said goodbye as people started to wander out. We helped add another bed to our room, and now here we are. Just getting ready for bed, writing a bit before we hit the hay.

Sailing on Lake Arthur